Showing posts with label Textiles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Textiles. Show all posts

Thursday, 6 June 2024

2024 Topic 4: Books & Journals {by Riikka Kovasin} on the PaperArtsy Blog




Heippa hei! It's Riikka from Paperiliitin blog here today with you.

I'm sharing my take on the "Books and Journals" topic and as you can see from the header, it's a bit different. Instead of making a book or a journal, I used an old book in my make in four ways. As the quarterly theme is "Hidden", I hid the book in plain sight. Can you spot all four places where I included it?

Well, to tell you the truth this lady hare wasn't my first thought when I read the theme. I actually pitched for something completely different, but then ended up suggesting this project. I'm so happy that I did and that I was allocated this slot! I remember going through the topic material Dounia had but together and saw an altered old book in there, pages folded to a cone shape. That ignited my imagination as I saw the cone as a flowing dress! If I try to trace back my though process, I guess the Elizabethan era came to my mind out of the shape and then I started to think of Queen of Hearts. I pitched just the idea of an art doll with a skirt made out of old book paper, but Dounia challenged me to use the book more. I accepted the challenge as I then realized the possibilities I had.

I've been telling you before that I'm a costume designer by education. I've been always intrigued by historical costumes and did my thesis on 18th century women's fashion. So, while I had a general idea of the Elizabethan look, it wasn't my area of expertise. Luckily I own a small library of books on costume history and there's always the trusty Google, too. While flicking through the images, one in particular stood out. I was mesmerized by "The Rainbow Portrait" (c.1600) of Queen Elizabeth I (link). There was something very striking about the posture and the dress and I actually ended up using that as an inspiration for the dress for my hare lady.


This project was such a joy to create. It allowed me to visit some old favorites of mine but also challenged me and let me explore something new. I also ended up doing something I haven't done for a long while, but probably should do more often! Find out what in the next paragraph!



Even at the risk of sounding like a parrot, as I mention it in many of my PaperArtsy posts, I often make my projects based on intuition rather than heavy planning. Of course I have a starting point and an idea where I might be headed, but often times that changes in the course of the project as I let that take the lead. This time it was different - like a proper clothing designer, I drew a sketch and then miraculously followed it through!

My first sketches were little doodles, just jotting the idea down. Usually I trust to remember the visual idea that emerges in my head when planning a project. This time I knew that there would be a bigger gap time-wise between the idea and the possibility to make it reality. So, I doodled a quick bunny with a flowing hem. Time went by and I then wanted to prepare myself better for the project, so I took a piece of paper, some markers and actually drew a more detailed, colored sketch for myself. As you can see from the ready make, I followed it quite closely. The sleeves are a bit different and there's a little alteration in the skirt, too. Also, you can see I hesitated when it came to the stand up collar in the sketch as I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off. But then I realized I had the perfect material for the collar in this scale! More about that later.

I picked the perfect stamp set for the decoration of hem. At least I saw the motif perfect for the patterning. I thought that the stylized flowers by Elizabeth Borer from her set 09 (EEB09) were just right for the job! Maybe their look is a bit more modern, but still echoes the florals of the Elizabethan era.

As I had been thinking about Queen of Hearts, red was an obvious color choice. I wanted the script to be partially readable and showing underneath the decorations, so I chose a translucent red paint Fresco Finish Cherry Red (FF86) and paired that with a orange Mattint Squeezed (MT06).

Before starting I also got other materials ready for my make: the polymer clay, the fabrics and the most important element of this book inspired make - an old book! I had two requirements for it. One - it needed to have a red spine and two - the title should be such that I could incorporate that. I went to a local flea market and found this beautiful old novel with the perfect red spine and lovely motifs on it as well. It wasn't until I was making the stomacher part for the doll that I actually read the author's name and realized, who he was. The novel was by Arvid Järnefelt - a brother of Finnish painter Eero Järnefelt and brother-in-law of composer Jean Sibelius!


This project didn't start by making a background. Or perhaps you could see the character as the background for the dress! So in that case, it did start with the crafting of the background!

I have a colleague at work (her Insta), who has been making dragon-shaped art dolls for years now. She's our in-house polymer clay master and I've been listening her tips keenly. When I made a couple of Easter bunnies this year (link) and had difficulties with their ears, I turned to her. I told her how I found it difficult to sculpt the head at the same time as the ears as the clay was so soft to the touch. She looked me with a blank expression for a while and then asked, why I didn't make the head and the ears separately. Doh! It never had occurred to me to do that! So, for this make I actually did just that - I made the head and the two ears separate and attached them before baking. For this make I also chose a harder polymer clay than I have used before and found it much better for my use.

I also made the hands for her using polymer clay and aluminum wire. I also colored her head before baking using soft pastels with a tiny brush.


I really liked how the pastels looked on her, but needed a bit more contrast especially to the eyes. Also her nose was a touch too pink for my taste, so that needed tweaking, too, After baking the head according to the packaging instructions and the advice from my colleague (white polymer clay might be sensitive to temperature - bake it in a lower temperature for a longer time to avoid discoloring), I then turned to PaperArtsy paints to finish the character. I used Fresco Finish Little Black Dress (FF19) around her eyes to get more dramatic contrast there. I included the paint also to her nostrils in order to make the shadowy part more darker.

To alter the bright pink nose and add some warm touches to the ears as well I used Mattint Squeezed (MT06). I found it perfect to add a bit of warmth to the nose especially and also to tie the project together with a cohesive color scheme.


Next it was time to start making the star of the show, the dress. I had bought some white linen and red wool for the sleeves and bodice, but mainly the dress would be made out of the book. I cut the spine of the book loose and turned that into a stomacher. A stomacher is a decorative triangular-shaped panel worn in front of a dress. I felt that the sturdy, flat piece of the spine would make a perfect stomacher! And the decorations on the spine worked wonderfully for it, too.

I also cut loose several pages of the book to be turned into the skirt. I chose pages that had writing through the whole length of the page as I wanted the hem to have a scripture pattern all over.

I was pondering how to do the skirt part for a while, but then decided to follow my gut and make it out of panels stitched on top of a piece of cotton. I thought that a full circle skirt would probably work the best for the dress. That way the waist wouldn't need much gathering (as I feared the paper couldn't handle it) and the hem would be very full and flowy still. I made a circle pattern using some scrap paper and then cut as wide a segment out of it as I could fit to the book page. I ended up needing 12 panels but I made 13 as I knew that instead of edge-to-edge I would sew them a bit overlapping and thus need more panels.


Then it was time to decorate the panels. I started by stamping one bloom to the middle of the bottom of the page - like I had drawn in my sketch. But then I looked at the shape of the flower again. It had a bit of a cone shape, growing wide in the top. Instead of following the natural growth orientation, I flipped the florals around, descending from her waist to the hem. I used a black ink for the stamping and swapped between different flowers in the set so each little panel is unique.

What I also like about my decision to change the direction is the text. I could have just scrapped the one page I stamped the flower to and start over, but I liked the idea of the text being upside down. That way it's not that easy to read what the page actually tells, the words become more like a pattern that actual text.


After stamping the patterns to all 13 pages, it was then coloring time. This step was the most time-consuming in the whole process! I mean, it took me a while to sculpt the head and sew the clothes, but I guess it was the repetition that made this step feel like ages! Real mindfulness as I needed to solely concentrate on the coloring, but still.

I used the two red colors I picked earlier to color the blooms. I used the darker red, Cherry Red (FF86), in the outer petals and Mattint Squeezed (MT06) in the inside the blooms. I also mixed the colors like adding the Cherry Red (FF86) near the center of the flower and then mixing it to Squeezed (MT06). I followed the same coloring idea throughout the sheets, but allowed the fact that they were hand-painted to show.


I have to be honest, I had a huge urge to add some splashes to the sheets but I managed to fight the desire! I mean, could you just think about red splashes on a skirt? That horror-story angle wasn't the look I was going for!

Now that I had my elements more or less done, it was time to start putting them together! I took my sewing machine out and threaded it ready.
 

I started the dress from the main part, the skirt. Like I wrote earlier, I had decided to make the skirt using panels so I cut the book pages with my segment pattern and then started to sew them to a full circle piece I cut out of light weight cotton. This was a tricky mission as I didn't want to use pins as they would make marks to the paper pieces. I ended up adding one pin near the waist and then just gripping the hem between my fingers as I laid it under my sewing machine. I used zigzag to attach the pieces in place going over the seam of the two panels.



Initially I thought to use a contrasting color like black for the stitching but I'm happy that I changed my mind and chose a beige tone quite near the color of the pages. This then makes the stamped pattern pop more. If I had used black, it would have drawn all the attention and left the floral pattern out of the limelight.

In order to fit the clothes to my bunny lady, I also added some padding to her. I used hot glue to add some polyester filling around her torso and then covered the fluff using masking tape.

I then sew a gathering to the waist of the skirt and tightened the skirt around her waist.



This next part made me chuckle! I honestly though about taking measurements out of the bunny and making a pattern, but I'm happy I decided against it and just went by my eye. The first pattern I drew was about twice the size I needed, so I just made it smaller and the second version was OK. I first made the bodice without the side and back seams, just sewing the shoulder seams together and then eyeballed the amount I needed to make the bodice tighter. I chose wool fabric for the bodice for two reasons. Firstly, I thought it would accentuate the sleek look of the skirt as it had a look of velvet but secondly, and most importantly, I didn't need to overlock the pieces and could use it unhemmed.

I also sew two sleeves. Or more truthfully, I sew two tubes, that I would use to make the sleeves. I added a gather to the end of the tube, passed her hands through, pulled the gather tight and then used hot glue to secure the sleeve in place.



It was fun to clothe her! I was so happy about the aluminum wire hands, when it came time to get the bodice on! It fitted snuggly and truth be told, I hadn't thought about how to get it on. Luckily it was OK, but a dread of needing to hand sew the whole thing on her crossed my mind.

After getting the bodice in place, I then added the bodice to the front and secured it with lacing. Well, I did use some glue, too. I also added two more gathers to the sleeves to make them puffy and shorter.


I now had the main elements of the dress made and on her, but the task wasn't done yet. The outfit needed more details! What captured my eye on "The Rainbow Portrait" was the elaborate ruffs and collars. The Queen is wearing three different collars in the painting. A small goffered frill one around her neck, then a bigger Medici collar styled attached to the dress and you can also see two large wired wing like pieces hovering behind her head. I wanted to repeat all three for my hare lady.

The first ruff I set out to do was the Medici styled one. For that I made a tape transfer out of the book pages. I used just wide packaging tape, laid it on top of the book page, adhering the page to the back and then used water and a sponge to remove the paper leaving just the script behind. I first soaked the piece for a while in a bucket to get the paper more easily removed.


I was first thinking using the transfer piece as such, transparent with the script, but it looked dull and too shiny. To turn it more into a lace-like piece, I used a Fresco Finish acrylic paint Chalk (FF83) to cover the back of the transfer. The shiny top part on the other hand I treated using a mat medium.

After letting the paint layers dry on top of the tape piece,  I then added yet another gather to the other long edge. I tried to keep my stitches as equal length as possible, so when I then pulled the thread tighter, I created these waves that resembled the ruffle. I used drops of hot glue to secure the collar for my doll.



I wouldn't have known how to attempt the heart-like standing collar if I had been making a human sized dress. Probably tiny pieces and a lot of wires or boning! But luckily working on a smaller scale and especially a fantasy-piece like this offered an easy solution - vellum! To mimic the lace-like look, I used white acrylic paint to stamp a pattern to it. I used Fresco Finish Chalk (FF83) as the color and the same floral motifs from the stamp set (EEB09) I had used to decorate the dress. To make myself an ink pad of sorts, I used a gel printing plate, where I applied the paint with a brayer as a thin layer.

While letting the sheet of vellum to dry, I drew a pattern for the collar. Like with the bodice, my first go was way too big and I needed to have another try. I then traced my pattern to the vellum and cut the shape loose. I used tiny drops of hot glue to secure the collar to the dress.


After finishing the two bigger, more elaborate collars, I made the third one. For this tiny one, I just used thin lace gathered around her neck. I first thought to make it "the right way" by intricately sewing a long lace piece to a collar accordion style but then decided against it. It would have been a bit too fiddly on this scale!

Two finishing touches remained - a pearl necklace and a small book for her to hold. The necklace part was easy, just threading some white seed beads to a piece of twine, but the book needed a bit more work. I used the left-over book spine pieces for the front and back cover and made a fresh new, tiny spine out of colored cardstock. The inner pages of the book are accordion folded strips out of the same book that I used throughout the make.



Lastly I placed the pearl necklace around her neck and glued the tiny book to her hand. An art doll with four different ways to use an old book done!


May I introduce Lady Hara of the Green Leaf to you? She's the youngest daughter of Earl Green Leaf and quite a keen reader. She has had some schooling due to having two big brothers being home tutored. Most of the time you can see her ladyship walking around with a book on her hand. She's fascinated about the new plays by Shakespeare but also has had the privilege of catching some of his sonnets, too.


There she is, all done and dressed to impress! I really liked crafting this rod puppet -styled doll, like I mentioned before. The challenge of using the book more than one way tickled my imagination and I'm really happy with the sculpting on this doll, too. I definitely will use the harder clay for other dolls!

Oh, do you want to hear the story of her name, Lady Hara of the Green Leaf? I searched the old English word for a hare (hara) and then wanted something accompanying it. Lady Hara just seemed too short for such grandeur. I was first thinking of Green Leaves, a reference to Greensleeves, a traditional English folk song, but decided to Google in case that was an actual title of someone. The top results for me included Green Leaf, a flavored green tea by Finnish company Nordqvist. And you know what it contains in addition to green tea? Cherries and vanilla! She's a white hare with touches of black, like vanilla ice cream and I used Cherry Red Fresco Finish paint to the color of the dress motifs. With those things clicking, I just had to name her Green Leaf!


By the way, did you find all the four uses for the book before seeing the steps? I guess the skirt and the tiny book might have been easy to pick out, but what about the bodice and the ruff, did you catch those? I was thinking of including the cover pages somehow as well, but their color scheme didn't fit the rest of the doll.

A quick word about the book she's holding. I was able to remove the cloth of the spine in these pieces, cut the cardboard smaller and then attach the cloth pieces again on top. That way I could wrap the edges of the fabric around the cardboard piece for a more finished look. I made the spine more flexible and rounder by rolling the cardstock piece in my fingers a little before adhering it in place.


Above is a close-up of the three collars for you to see them a bit better. Especially the tape transfer can be slightly hard to spot in the bigger image. You might ask why I did a transfer when I then ended up painting the piece white anyway. Well, like I wrote in the steps, I thought to keep the piece transparent at first, but it didn't look the part. Also, the pages of the book I was using were yellowed by time and I wanted the collar to be a brighter white. Naturally I could have used another book, with whiter pages, but it was more fun to use pieces of the same book throughout. The finished transfer piece is more flexible and moldable, too.

If you want to use acrylic paint to stamp, like I did to pattern the heart-shaped wire collar, keep a jug of water nearby and toss the stamps there so the paint won't dry to your stamps. Remove any paint residue with care so your stamps will last longer and give a nice, crisp image.


If you are not keen on doing an art doll project, maybe you can draw inspiration out of this make in another way. Here's a couple of suggestions:

- Use an era or a painting to be inspired by. Try to capture the atmosphere, the colors or your thoughts about them.

- Pick an item to alter and try to think of multiple ways to use it in a make. Is it material, can it be used as a tool, or better yet - both!

- Try stamping with acrylic paint.

- Tape transfers can be a lot of fun! Use old book pages, magazines or laser prints. Soaking makes the paper soft and more easy to remove. Make a layered piece with added stenciling or different colors and use the tape as a decoration to a card or a way to start a background for a journal.

- Make a background for a card or a journaling project using old book paper and stamping. Use translucent paints to color the motif so the text is shown trough them.


Thank you so much for your visit today! I hope you were inspired by this lady!



Instagram: Paperiliitin
YouTube: Riikka Kovasin
Facebook: Paperiliitin

Monday, 17 April 2023

2023 Topic 4 : Mail Art {by Riikka Kovasin} with Scrapcosy stamps



Moikka, it's Riikka Kovasin from Paperiliitin blog here today with you. I'm sharing my project for the "Mail Art" topic. Yes, I know it may not look anything like mail art connected at the first glance, but I assure you, there's a connective element in there!


You probably remember by now that this year the posts have two things running in them - the topic like here, "Mail Art" and then a theme, which in this case is "Texture". I mainly played with the feel of different materials in these, adding fabric and jewellery parts into the mix but there's also dimensional texture in the form of a texture paste. And I guess you could think of the collaging in the middle part as visual texture, too.

I love to combine different materials into my make and nowadays quite often draw inspiration from my past as a seamstress in theater wardrobes!

But without further ado, let's get going!


When thinking about the topic, "Mail Art", my thoughts first went to decorated envelopes. But that route didn't take me anywhere interesting in my head so I decided to open my mind and think about what the mail art could be in a broader sense.

One of the things that then popped to my head was messages in a bottle - a different way of communicating! I played with the idea a bit, but as the main part would have been sending a message out and I didn't want to litter the sea, I opted out of that as well. I also thought about making something else, more traditional to be mailed, like ATCs or cards, and then sending those out, thus covering the mailing part. That led me to letters and especially stamps, those tiny works of art by themselves and my collage stash.

I'm not sure how my mind then made the leap to collaging stamps and pieces of letters to brooches, but that's the idea I ended up pitching! Maybe it was the tones of the postage stamps in my mind or the combination of the postage stamps and the blooms in this Scrapcosy stamp set that made me think about jewellery, miniature paintings and prize ribbons. The intuitive leap between letters and brooches might have also been the memory of seeing the most peculiar jewellery in an exhibition in my home town long ago - pendants, beads and elaborate lace-like pieces made out of human hair. The choice of material was strange at first, but when reading the display info made more sense. Those pieces on the display case were mainly used for mourning or worshiping. Such a personal connection! Maybe my mind went from the personal connection in the letters via that hair jewellery route. (If you want to read more about that specific jewellery, here's a link to Wikipedia article about this height of fashion during the Victorian era.)


It was clear from the start that I would use kind of a dusty pastel palette in my pieces. I saw the ready ribbons as something rococo looking in my mind's eye. The 18th century connection is something I can pinpoint more accurately as I've always been intrigued by the fashion of that century. I even did my thesis out of that and visited a couple of costume collections while studying for it.

While I had the old stamps and letters in my stash already, I didn't have the fabrics that fitted into the palette I was striving for. So, into a fabric store I went and bought 10 cm, the minimum amount, of three fabrics. First to catch my eye was this peachy toned silk, just the fabric I had in my mind all along! I would have wanted a similar blue one, but all the blue ones the store had were of the totally wrong colors. Instead I chose this ornate polyester, which to me echoed the right look. By chance I also noticed this thin, flowing tulle that reminded me of a fine lace. So, I picked that one as well.


As I now had fabrics in the color scheme I was striving for, I then matched them to Fresco Finish paints. I have made myself this color chart of the paints I have and with it I sought for perfect pairing. I picked Glacier Ice (FF132) to match the blue and Cherry Blossom (FF117) to match the peachy tone. As I was going to color the blooms using the same paints, I also picked up a green color, Sage (FF66). It matched the dusty, old air of the color palette.

I was invested in this stamp set early on. The beautiful blooms of the Scrapcosy stamp set (ESC01) perfectly fitted my idea of miniature flower paintings to decorate the brooches.



To have a sturdy but smooth surface for the pieces, I immediately thought of using large wooden buttons. I've used them before to make brooches and they do the trick perfectly. I also love the little dome they have, kind of echoing a cabochon.

The first thing I did was to paint the substrates. Even though I was going to add some collaging on top, I thought it was nice to have the surface kind of primed and also this way I didn't need to cover the whole area. I chose to use the blue (FF132) and green (FF66) from my chosen palette in the coloring.


Next I then collaged the pieces of the old letters and stamps on top of the wooden bases. As they weren't that big, even though I picked the biggest size available in the craft store, I needed to tear the letters into really small pieces and also cut the stamps. I used a matte gel medium to adhere the pieces on top of the substrates.


While the bases were drying, I then turned my attention to the flowers. I was pondering between two options for a really long time. The first was to stamp the flower onto the base directly and then color it there. But as I had picked pastel paints that were opaque, the coloring of the flowers would have needed a steady hand indeed. The other option would have been to stamp the flower, color it and then stamp again, but there was no way I could have stamped the flower twice on exactly the same spot on a curved surface. If I had chosen a flat surface, that would have been possible using a stamping tool, but as I loved the curved, domed look of the buttons, that wasn't an option here.

So I went with a roundabout solution - stamping the images on top of another surface and collaging them in. I chose to stamp them on top of white tissue paper knowing that this way I could get almost the look of them being stamped directly to the substrate. As I was going to use wet media to color the blooms, I chose an ink that would endure the moisture once heat set.


I had been thinking about the way to color the blooms before starting the project and continued debating with myself even after I had stamped the flowers. At first I was thinking of using watercolors or markers, but then decided against it as I didn't want to add more mediums to the make!

So, when I chose to go with the tissue paper, an obvious coloring method provided itself. I flipped the tissue paper and colored the blooms with the chosen acrylics from the behind the stamped image. This way I got a nice covering with paint and crisp lines! The messy, speedy crafter I enjoy the haphazard coloring so much! I used the blue, Glacier Ice (FF132), and peach, Cherry Blossom (FF117), to the blooms and the green, Sage (FF66), to the leaves and stems.


I was really pleased to have found a coloring method that ticked all the boxes! Or so I thought...
 

Next was to combine the elements, the building blocks, I had created. I tore the flowers out of the big sheet of tissue with the help of a wet brush and before collaging them, trimmed most of the white paper away. Why I just didn't cut them, you might ask. Well, I thought that the torn edge would be so much easier to "hide" than a straight cut one! And, well, also tearing was easier than cutting all the little stems and leaves.

If you are not familiar with this tearing technique, the idea behind it is simple. Cellulose paper is most brittle when it's wet. So when you are tearing, the paper will want to pull apart from the wet bit rather than the dry one as there's less resistance. You just take a wet brush, go around the shape you want to tear and then watch the magic happen when you are tearing! Remember though that the tissue paper is delicate and absorbing so leave some room between the wet line and design as the paper absorbs the moisture and the line thickens. Try a few times and you'll get the hang of it.


As I tested the torn out flowers on top of the backgrounds, it seemed that while I picked pastel colored postage stamps, the collaged background was still competing with the impact of the flower. So, before I added the blooms on top of the backgrounds, I added a thin coat of white gesso on top of the background collages to allow a soft contrast. In case you don't have gesso, you could try white acrylic paint as well, just a thin, thin coat, paperartsy paint is chalk, so all the white available are very much like gesso anyway.


After drying the gesso I then collaged the flowers on top using a matte gel medium. This is a stage when all can go horribly wrong if you are not careful enough! As I just mentioned, paper is most delicate when it's wet so too vigorous brushing might cause your image to tear or warp. So use some caution at this stage! Generally a layer of glue on both surfaces seems to work well and allow you some wiggle room too.


When picking up the materials for the project, I had also added a stencil to my craft table. I was torn between using or not. In the end, I'm happy that I did, but now looking back the process, with a twist coming along, I probably would have added the stenciled piece a bit later.

The stencil I picked was this eclectic one by Scrapcosy (PS064). It had a great postage stamp styled frame on it, one more connection to the topic. To add more texture to the brooches, I used a dimensional texture paste through it. I chose a golden glitter paste to give the jewellery a touch of regal luster. The tricky part was pushing the stencil hard enough to the domed surface, but as I was using a gritty paste, that was really forgiving when it came to the neatness of the edges.


As you can see, I didn't use the whole frame in the make, but instead tried to highlight the flower, just adding a corner around it. The corner point of the two intersecting lines is a natural focal point, so that corner then effectively lures the eye in.


Now the centers needed some drying time, so I turned my attention to the fabric bits and jewellery parts!

First I cut strips out of the bought fabrics. Well, I say cut, but that's true only in case of two materials, the tulle and the blue fabric. When it came to the silk, I did something you're not supposed to do and tore it into strips. I did that because I really wanted that frayed edge there! It echoed something I saw in the beautiful gowns I was looking while making my thesis - the decorating ruffle trims, undulating on top of the surface weren't hemmed. That shouldn't be such a surprise after all, but I especially remember this sulfur yellow gorgeous gown with a multitude of thin ruffles spiraling across the surface of the dress and all of them had an edge that looked like something cut with pinking shears.

I also rummaged through my bead and pearl stash and picked out elements that I thought fitted the rococo feel. I also did a quick Google search of actual rococo brooches to get some inspiration for the choice of beads. It seemed that tear shaped pearls were the thing, dangling from the bottom of the jewellery and lucky enough, I had one such thing in my stash!


The next step was the one that took the longest. Even though I'm a clothing designer by education and have been a seamstress, it always humbles me to sew by hand. Nowadays it's easy just to make ruffle using a sewing machine, but thinking back to 1700's no such thing was available and all the decorative ruffles, not to mention the whole seams and hems, were done by hand. Sewing by hand also makes up as a way of meditation for me.

This long stage I'm referring to is making ruffles. I added a gathering stitch line to the other long edge of the fabric strips, tightened the thread and made circular ruffles out of them. I layered two strips together and sewed them tightly to a piece of felt I had cut to the same size of the center wooden piece. I tried to use neat little stitches in the attaching as I knew those would be visible on the back. If sewing by hand isn't your cup of tea, you can use a machine as well to make the ruffles and even glue the parts together.



Remember when I wrote that I was happy finding a coloring that ticked all the boxes, or so I thought? And that something happened along the way and now looking back, I'd add the dimensional frame to the center piece a bit later? Well, this is that part.

When I had the ruffles done and secured to the base, I tested the center pieces on top. Something seemed to be missing from them! I wanted an air of days gone by more prominent. An easy way to add that, I thought, was to add a crackled surface on top. So I painted all of the centers using a clear one phase crackle paint and let that dry.

The hard part came when it was time to choose a paint to highlight the cracks. Now looking back, it would have been wise to make a little test pieces, but I tested the two color options directly onto the centers. I picked Squid Ink (FF56) and Vintage Lace (FF18) to try. You can see the tests underneath.


I was so certain that the dark color was the way to go! But after applying the layer of paint and then rubbing most of it off, so the color only rested in the grooves, I saw how wrong I was. The look changed from rococo to baroque! The center looked heavy and also the sharpness of the flowers was lost as the dark cracks carried the same contrast as the blooms.

Luckily I had tried that other color as well, though thinking that was definitely not it. And yes, you guessed it, it definitely was just the one for these. The whitish cracks created a dusty effect on top of the flower, giving it that right aged look but kept the color palette light and lovely.

The rubbing off part, with the raised frame in there, was a bit tricky as I covered the whole surface with the paint and getting it off the gritty paste was harder than I thought. So, if I would now do the same project again, I'd add the crackle paste first, highlight the cracks with the Vintage Lace (FF18) and after that add the frame. The look would be different then, though. The gold would be more prominent.


After finishing the centers, I then made the dangly bits for the brooches. For those I used pearls, beads and bow shaped jewellery parts as well as eye pins and jump rings.

As I now had all the elements done and treated, it was just adding them together that was left to do. First I sewed a brooch back to the felt and then adhered the wooden button on top of the ruffles on the other side. I used a sturdy craft glue for that.


While the glue was a bit wet still and I had a chance to manoeuver the center part, I then sewed the dangling bit in place. I felt that by sewing it in place instead of gluing, the feel of the piece would be more loose. I also felt it echoed the era better.


Many of the jewellery pieces I had seen while googling had an edge or frame of little rhinestones around the central piece. I was thinking of doing that with small beads or rhinestones in the end, as the last detail, but when trying that out, the piece started to look too heavy. Instead I then used these tiny rhinestones to decorate the blooms - kind of echoing those rhinestones around the edge. By the way, you know where these tiny ones are from? A diamond painting! Such a perfect size to finish these brooches off!


I chose to go with just white with the tiny rhinestones, not adding any more colors in and also to mimic the pearls that I saw in the jewellery of the era.

Maybe that pearly connection is also the reason why the brooch my daughter is wearing in the picture below is my personal favourite! It's the only one that has that tear shaped pearl hanging.



I really like how these brooches turned out! They have that airy, light feel but still have references to the period - at least I feel they do! I especially love the juxtaposition of the soft, delicate colors and the roughness, grunginess of the torn edges. I also love the personal connection by adding pieces of letters in the background. Kind of hiding in plain sight. 

If sewing isn't your thing, you could draw inspiration from these brooches and just do the center part! By changing the color scheme you could then make them more vibrant, muted or even monochrome, suiting your way of dressing. To tell you the truth, I'm not totally sure I'm going to wear these brooches, but I really wanted to make them just this way, to repeat the visual image I had in my head when thinking about the topic.

I kind of skimmed through the jewellery making part in the steps. If jump rings and eye pins don't mean anything to you, not to worry. If you want to add a dangly bit to your creation, you can always add a piece of ready jewellery. Maybe give a new life to a broken favorite? Or something you found in a jumble sale? Here the idea of the personal connection was in the collaged bits of letters, but what if the connection was the jewellery part instead!

Oh, and remember the pinking shears? I actually ended up trimming one of the brooches with them, as an homage to that yellow dress that still is so vivid in my imagination even though I studied it some twenty-odd years ago!

Thank you for stopping by today! I hope you find these pieces inspirational and managed to get through the wall of text telling the story of them and behind them.

Xoxo Riikka



Facebook: Paperiliitin
Instagram: Paperiliitin